A guide to the most exciting watches of the year.
- By Dhiram Shah
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-plat Squelette 5395
The slim, skeletonised watch is as much technical as it is artistic. The emphasis is on craftsmanship, with an un- obstructed view of the magnificent hand decoration on the self-winding tourbillon. Just 3mm thick, it is one of the thinnest movements of its kind ever created. The gold plate and bridges have been hollowed out, making it extremely lightweight, while still providing 80 hours of reserve power. It sits in a fluted 41mm case, topped by a domed glass- box revealing the movement with applied hour markers in blued gold. The design is rounded off with traditional blued moon-tipped hands and soldered horns in the distinct Breguet style. Water-resistant to 30 metres, the watch is available with a grey movement in a rose gold case or with a rose movement in a platinum case. It comes with an alligator leather strap with a gold folding buckle.
Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon 10
This watch marks the 10th anniversary of the Harry Winston collection dedicated to the tourbillion. Having used tourbillons with single, double and triple axes, combined (or not) with single or double tourbillons and carousels in the earlier version, the 2019 model is equipped with four tourbillons arranged in symmetrical order. They are collectively made up of as many as 673 components, because of which the watch is housed in a massive rectangular case, 53.3mm wide and 39.1mm tall. The open worked movement can be seen in the four corners of the case, housed in a glass box supported by two transverse bridges. The dial is a single component sapphire piece. Its central hollow circle hosts the 12-hour markers for the chapter ring. It extends upwards and downwards through a rectangular extension that carries the two large numbers, 6 and 12. The bezel is chamfered and bevelled and features higher elevation at 6 and 12 o’clock, marked by two notches, which, together with the variation in height, trace the three Harry Winston arches, a tribute to the architecture of the entrance to the brand’s iconic Fifth Avenue showroom. The 18k gold watch comes in three limited editions, white gold and rose gold (10 pieces each) and a special edition Winstonium model, limited to just one unique piece.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Moon
Seven years ago, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the Rendez-Vous line as the first watch family designed exclusively for ladies. This year, the Swiss watchmaker has updated the model by adding a larger, lacquered moonphase display. The reworked moonphase can be seen through the guilloche decorated aperture at 6o’clock. The polished moon waxes and wanes against a lacquered blue starry sky. As compared to the earlier version, this model features an additional halo of 47 diamonds at the centre of the dial, in addition to the 60 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel of the 34mm case. Caliber 935A is an automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve.
Hermés Arceau Vheure De La Lune
This classy timepiece presents a unique take on the double moonphase complication. Visible at first glance is a stunning pair of stationary mother-of- pearl moons with a complementary pair of lacquer dials floating over the top. The lacquer dials rotate around the main dial once every 59 days, which in turn cover and uncover the moons to indicate its current moonphase in the two hemispheres simultaneously.
The moons are in an inverted position, with the lower one representing the northern hemisphere and the top one the southern hemisphere. While one of the floating dials displays the hours and minutes, the other shows the date. The watch comes in a 43mm white gold Arceau case with a choice of two dial colours, a meteorite with graduated grey lacquered discs, and aventurine with white lacquered discs. It is limited to 100 pieces.
Cartier Panthére de Cartier Manchette Cuff
In 2017, Cartier surprised everyone by resurrecting the Panthére de Cartier line of watches, which was first launched in the 1980s and discontinued subsequently. The 2019 version is a cuff watch available in a variety of precious metals with black lacquer and diamond details. The dial sits off-centre in an open-worked jewellery chain with the bezel set with diamonds. The partially open-worked chain subtly reveals a glimpse of the skin, making it a gorgeous piece. The watch is powered by a quartz movement.
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon
This impressive new addition to the Spirit of Big Bang collection features, for the first time, a tonneau-shaped 42mm case, made of carbon-fibre that integrates black or blue composites. The HUB6020 movement powering the watch was developed explicitly for this new design. The airy, skeletonized dial has the tourbillon at 6o0’clock, a 5- day power reserve indicator at 80’clock, and an off-centered time display at 3o’clock. The ‘One-Click’ fastening system for the strap also makes its appearance on the Spirit of Big Bang collection for the first time. It is limited to 100 pieces.